1st Arrondissement


(G) A Casa Luna
4–6, rue de Beaujolais. 01 42 60 05 11.
Corsican cuisine complete with the local Corsican wine.
(S) L’Ardoise
28, rue du Mont Thabor. 01 42 96 28 18.
Tues–Sat, lunch and dinner; Sun, dinner only.

Updated bistro cooking at a reasonable price in the center of Paris? It exists at this chef-run establishment, a stone’s throw from the Tuileries.
(H) Au Chien Qui Fume
33, rue du Pont Neuf. 01 42 36 07 42.
More than 250 years old and, with its dog-themed decor, a destination for dog lovers in search of a French meal. It was a favorite of my mother-in-law, who went to the Sorbonne many years ago.
(G, V) Bistrot Victoires
6, rue de la Vrillière. 01 42 61 43 78.
Daily, lunch and dinner.

You’re hungry. It’s late. You haven’t reserved. You don’t want to spend a fortune. You go here.
(T, L) Le Café Marly (view from Café Marly pictured above)
93, rue de Rivoli, Cour Napoleon du Louvre. 01 49 26 06 60.
Open daily, all day.

The menu at Marly is mundane and mondaine, but nobody goes here to eat, really. No, it’s the view of the central courtyard of the Louvre that keeps this place packed.
Note: The Costes brothers also own (T) L’Avenue (41, ave Montaigne, in the 8th; 01 40 70 14 91) and Georges (in the Centre Pompidou, in the 4th; 01 44 78 47 99; closed Tues), among other restaurants. Georges can be fun because the view is terrific and the decor outrageous. Plus, they own the famous Hôtel Costes, which is terribly chic, though the staff can be rude to some.
(L) Café Ruc
159, rue St.-Honoré. 01 42 60 97 54.
Café Ruc, or Le Ruc, as locals call it, is trendy and modern, albeit somewhat expensive. An entrée, plat et dessert can run you anywhere from 30 to 60 euros, though the cuisine is particularly good. Café Ruc does not have a good reputation when it comes to the waitstaff, but that’s part of the French experience. Learn to love it.
(*) Carré des Feuillants
14, rue de Castiglione. 01 42 86 82 82.
Chef Dutripnier is one of the city’s’s star chefs—try the chef’s creation menu. This place has been consistently great for decades. We dined there (we think it was our first haute cuisine experience) prekids. Wine list is major. Expensive.
(T) Flottes O.Trement
2, rue Cambon. 01 42 61 31 15.
Tues–Sat, lunch and dinner.

There are actually two restaurants at this address. The one you want is not Chez Flottes but Flottes O.Trement, the fashionable, newly renovated brasserie upstairs, where a cool room, a cool crowd and contemporary takes on classic dishes await. A bit pricey, but this is Chanel territory.
(T, L, D) Le Fumoir
6, rue de l’Amiral Coligny. 01 42 92 00 24.
Daily, 11 a.m.–2 a.m.

The food is alright but the drinks are better at this cool spot with a long bar, tables filled with pretty people and a terrace facing the eastern end of the Louvre.
(D, G) Le Garde Robe
41, rue de l’Arbre Sec. 01 49 26 90 60.
Mon–Fri, 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and 6 p.m.–midnight; Sat, 2:30 p.m.–midnight.

Natural wines, cheese and charcuterie are on the board at this laid-back bar à vins.
(S) Hidden Kitchen
Reservations by email only: hkreservations@gmail.com
Here’s a recipe for a Paris meal to remember: 1) Email the dining-club chefs, American expats Braden and Laura, to reserve your place. 2) Follow directions to an immense and beautifully appointed apartment. 3) Once seated with 15 other guests, enjoy a delicious and visually stunning 10-course meal paired with fine wines, followed by a sumptuous dessert. 4) Give the hosts the suggested 80 euros. Read a full review here.
(V) Higuma
32, rue Ste.-Anne. 01 47 03 38 59.
Higuma is one of the many ramen shops that line rue Ste.-Anne in the Asian quarter of the 1st Arrondissement. Close to the Pyramides metro stop and les grands magasins at Opéra, Higuma is a great ramen-ya for a quick and inexpensive lunch. Try a bowl of steaming hot noodles on a cold day—the spicy kimchi ramen (lamen on the menu) is sure to clear up any sinus cold.
(G, T) Issé
45, rue de Richelieu. 01 42 96 26 60.
Mon, dinner; Tues–Sat, lunch and dinner.

Fashionable regulars return to Issé again and again for the bento box at lunch and the creative tasting menu at dinner.
(D) Lavinia
3, blvd de la Madeleine. 01 42 97 20 27.
Mon–Sat, noon–3 p.m. for lunch and until 8 p.m. for small plates and wine.

Yes, it has a bit of a generic megastore feel, but this massive wineshop near la Madeleine has a restaurant and bar upstairs that serves snacks and wines by the glass to a lively after-work crowd. If you’re up for a bottle, choose one from the store shelves and take it directly to the bar—there’s no markup.
(S) Macéo
15, rue des Petits-Champs. 01 42 97 53 85.
An understated yet chic little place with an impressive wine list. Expensive.
(*, C) Le Meurice
228, rue de Rivoli. 01 44 58 10 55.
Mon–Fri, lunch and dinner.

Yannick Alléno’s celebrated cooking makes this a destination for gastronomes from around the world. Le Meurice is a Michelin 3-star.
(V, S) Olio Pane Vino
44, rue Coquillière. 01 42 85 27 33.
Mon–Sat, lunch; dinner on Thurs and Fri only
Near the old belly of Paris, this convivial and unfussy Italian table has a loyal following. A glass of prosecco, a platter of prosciutto, a plate of pasta, pas de problème. Read a full review here.
(S) La Régalade Saint-Honoré
123, rue St.-Honoré, in the 1st. 01 42 21 92 40.
Open daily.
49, ave Jean Moulin, in the 14th. 01 45 45 68 58.
Mon, dinner; Tues–Fri, lunch and dinner.

News that Bruno Doucet has opened another Régalade in the 1st Arrondissement is surely welcomed by those who don’t love traveling to the far reaches of the 14th to eat at what might be considered the first neo-bistro. Of course a meal this good (starting, as always, with a slice of terrine de campagne offered à volontiers) merits the trip. Read a full review here.
(L) Le Restaurant du Palais Royal
110, galerie de Valois. 01 40 20 00 27.
Surely one of the most beautiful places in all of Paris, particularly the terrace in summer—book ahead! You’ll pay for the ambiance.
(T) Le Saut du Loup
107, rue de Rivoli, in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. 01 42 25 49 55.
A chic place for lunch after triping the museum.
(*, T) Spring
6, rue Bailleul. 01 45 96 05 72.
Tues–Sat, dinner; Wed–Sat, lunch.

American Daniel Rose has finally opened the second version of his highly praised restaurant, featuring pristine products presented with a clear vision in a beautifully renovated space. Read a full review here.
(L) Table d’Hôte du Palais Royal
8, rue de Beaujolais. 01 42 61 25 30.
Run by self-taught chef Caroll Sinclair. Focuses on market-fresh produce and food in season. As the Girls’ Guide, we celebrate all the female chefs of Paris!
(D, C) Willi’s Wine Bar 13, rue des Petits-Champs. 01 42 61 05 09.
Mon–Sat, lunch and dinner.

A Paris classic run by Englishman Mark Williamson. Reserve for a meal in the recently renovated dining room, or find a spot at the bar for a few glasses or a casual meal. Read a full review here.
(*, T) Yam’Tcha
4, rue Sauval. 01 40 26 08 07.
Wed–Sun, lunch and dinner.

Book many weeks in advance for superb Franco-Japanese cuisine from L’Astrance alum Adeline Grattard.