Eating Your Way through Puglia

Plan to fly into Brindisi Airport (BDS) by 3 pm, jump into a taxi and meet at the pre-trip night hotel, we'll be whisked away to the charming Trulli region to start our trip. There are plenty of daily flights into Brindisi from major European hubs such as London, Zurich, Rome, and Munich. 

Our home for the next few nights is Masseria Camarda, a historic farmhouse nestled amidst centuries-old olive trees and some of Puglia’s most beautiful historic villages. 

Unpack and settle in before we gather in the evening for our first of many apertivos. Apertivo is an Italian tradition enjoyed before dinner consisting of light snacks and wine. It's meant to open up our appetites for the meal ahead, while offering space for conversation and laughter. 

We'll seamlessly transition into a lovely dinner prepared for us by the hotel, made with fresh, local ingredients. It's the perfect introduction to all of the outstanding Italian cuisine we'll enjoy on this trip. 

Wake up and soak in the views while we have our first breakfast together at the hotel. Our driver will pick us up mid-morning to begin our adventure through the Itria Valley, famous for its rolling countryside, ancient olive groves, and picturesque whitewashed villages.

Our first stop is Alberobello, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, renowned for its iconic trulli, unique conical-roofed houses. After walking through the village and learning about its significance and history, we'll stop to enjoy lunch at a local taverna. 

We'll continue to explore Locorotondo, with its circular historic center, and Cisternino, known for its narrow alleys and traditional butchers grilling meat in the streets, a gem of authenticity.

We're in for a real treat as we head to visit an olive grove to learn about the process of making olive oil. Our good friend Luigi will introduce us to the wonderful plant that is the olive tree and explain the principles of sustainable farming.

He'll lead us through an olive oil tasting experience, teaching us how to appreciate the health benefits and flavor profiles of high-quality EVOO.

After a long and wonderful day, we'll return to Masseria Camarda for dinner and a restful night's sleep.

After indulging in breakfast at our hotel, we'll spend the morning exploring Martina Franca and Ostuni, two must-see towns in Puglia. 

We'll explore Martina Franca's historic center with its winding alleys, whitewashed houses, and grand piazzas, including the UNESCO-recognized Basilica di San Martino. Then, we'll visit Ostuni, 'The White City,' known for its whitewashed buildings, hidden cafes, artisan shops, and views of the Adriatic Sea. 

After lunch, we'll have the pleasure of meeting Sara, a local cheese artisan who will explain the various steps it takes to transform fresh milk into delicious mozzarella, ricotta, caciocavallo, and many other types of cheese.

Sara will expertly create "pasta filata", which we'll take and shape into our own fresh balls of mozzarella. Can you think of anything more delicious? She'll then guide us through a tasting of the cheeses she produces at her farm, both new and aged. 

We'll put all of this fresh mozzarella to good use tonight, don't fret. A local pizzaiolo (pizza chef), Gigi, will guide us in the preparation of pizza. We'll learn how to hand-stretch dough and garnish our pizza with local Pugliese ingredients. We'll share our masterpieces over a glass of wine or two and toast to another lovely day together.

Today, after breakfast, we'll check out of our hotel and head about two hours west to Matera, one of the most distinctive cities in Italy. 

Once we arrive, we'll explore the town on foot with an experienced local guide. As one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, it's famous for its ancient cave dwellings, known as the Sassi di Matera. 

We'll stroll through the picturesque streets of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, visit the stunning rock-hewn churches, and enjoy breathtaking views from the Belvedere before pausing for lunch at a local eatery. 

After lunch, you'll have free time to wander the town and explore all it has to offer. Pick up a handmade souvenir, enjoy an afternoon pick-me-up at a local cafe, or simply relax at the hotel rooftop bar. 

We'll be staying at Palazzo della Fontana for the next couple of nights, an urban hotel nestled right in the heart of town. Named after the iconic Ferdinandea Fountain located mere steps from the hotel, it's an ideal base for us that offers all of the comforts we could need. 

We'll reconvene for dinner this evening at one of the local cave restaurants, a unique experience that's an essential part of any Matera visit.

After our choice of a sweet or savory breakfast spread at the hotel, we'll continue our Italian culinary adventure. 

Our first stop is Altamura, a hillside town known for its traditional durum wheat bread, pane di Altamura. Here, we'll visit a legendary local bakery to discover how the local bread is made and savor fresh creations. Bread produced here is a designated protected designation of origin (PDO), similar to Champagne, halloumi, and kalamata olives, to name a few.

We'll stop and enjoy lunch, making sure to sample some of the delicious bread. 

Next, we'll meet with local distillers, Angela and Fabia, who will share their journey as master distillers and introduce us to gin. They harvest botanicals from Alta Murgia National Park, dry them, and process them into spirits for sale. We'll sample their Gins and Amaro, and craft a Gin & Tonic to enjoy alongside a light apertivo.

You'll have the evening to yourself to explore the iconic caves around Matera, many of which have been preserved and are open to the public. Enjoy dinner on your own or with new friends. Your guide has plenty of recommendations for local spots if you need inspiration. 

We'll bid farewell to Matera today and head off to Lecce, a two-hour drive east. On our journey, we'll stop in Grottaglie, a small town notorious for its unique ceramic creations. This is the perfect spot to pick up any handcrafted souvenirs. It's a ceramic lover's dream!

From there, we'll finish the drive to Lecce and check into our 5-star hotel, Baglioni Masseria Muzza Resort & Spa. This luxe resort offers elegant yet rustic suites, a pool overlooking the Salento countryside, and a beautiful spa. 

Unpack and settle in before we gather for a walking tour of the "Florence of the South". While Lecce is known for its architecture featuring remnants of a Roman amphitheater and medieval structures, the true gem of the town is its vibrant Baroque architecture, crafted from local golden sandstone.

Dinner tonight features typical Leccese cuisine, rooted in rural home cooks' recipes. Expect fresh vegetables and seafood from the Ionian Sea. Dishes include 'ciceri e tria’ (fried tagliatelle with chickpeas), 'polpette di melanzane' (fried eggplant balls with basil and mint), and 'orecchiette con cime di rapa' (pasta with anchovies and turnip greens).

After breakfast at the hotel, we'll depart for a morning boat ride along the stunning Salento coastline, where crystal-clear waters and breathtaking cliffs create a truly unforgettable experience.

After taking in the beauty of the coast, we'll dock for lunch at Lo Scalo di Novaglie, a charming seaside restaurant offering freshly caught seafood-based dishes. 

This afternoon, we'll head off on a nice leisurely, guided walk through the gorgeous town of Otranto, known for its stunning beaches, historic old town, and rich cultural heritage. 

The iconic Aragonese Castle and the Cathedral with its famous mosaic floor reflect centuries of history. Stroll along the picturesque seafront, explore the medieval alleys, and admire the breathtaking views of the Adriatic.

This morning we'll set off to explore the side of Lecce we haven't seen yet. We'll cross the Pilgrim's Way, an ancient route used by pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land, on our way to Strada Romana and Via dell'Olio.

Strada Romana, named for its Roman origins, is a historic road that connected the city to Puglia. Today, it’s lined with buildings and sites showcasing Lecce’s Roman heritage. We'll follow this with a walk down Via dell’Olio, known for olive oil shops, to experience local culture and flavors. These streets tell Lecce’s story, blending history and lively present, and offer a delightful city journey.

Later, we'll drive southwest towards the little town of Galatina and the once fortified village of Gallipoli, perched on the Ionian Sea, stopping to visit the colorful fish market and stroll its narrow whitewashed streets.

We'll enjoy a late lunch and wine tasting at Masserie Le Stanzie. This agricultural farm is a diverse operation featuring orchards, olive groves, vineyards, a garden that produces seasonal vegetables, and livestock, including cattle and sheep. 

The owners will give us a tour of the farm before offering a focaccia-making workshop, followed by a wine tasting. All of the ingredients come straight from their property; you can't get fresher than that! 

Take this evening to wander Lecce one last time, indulge in an Italian sweet treat, or sip on local wines while you watch the world go by. We'll toast to our last night in Puglia and the beautiful journey we've been on this week with a wonderful farewell dinner. 

Sadly, our time in Italy together has come to an end. After breakfast, we'll transfer to the Brindisi airport for your onward travels. 

We'll exchange pictures and phone numbers and promise to stay in touch with all the new friends we've made along the way. Until next time...