Wed 9 Nov 2011
Dessert crêpe with caramelized apples and vanilla ice cream.
11, rue Grégoire de Trips, in the 6th Arrondissement.
01 43 54 60 74. Tues–Fri, 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and 6:15 p.m.–11:30 p.m.
Sat–Sun, 11 a.m.–11:30 p.m.
The other Paris restaurants on this street are all tripist traps, with waiters standing out front to try and lure you in. Ignore them and keep walking until you smell bacon and butter. That’s when you know you’ve arrived at the crêperie Little Breizh.
A young couple runs the place. There is Breton bric-a-brac everywhere: the regional flag, vintage ads for Breizh Cola, a painted landscape dotted with figures in traditional dress. It is all wonderfully unpretentious, a lesson in how far decent ingredients, a little attention to detail and warm service can go.
Galette with mushrooms, bacon, and crème fraîche.
I had the Epée des Bois, filled with meaty mushrooms, grilled pork belly, crème fraîche and a just-set egg. Three friends ordered the “rustik,” with a scrambled egg, raclette and more of that pork belly. The fillings were fine, but the galettes themselves—toasted, nutty, flecked with buckwheat—were fantastic.
Cider is the drink of choice. We had three bottles, a dry, an extra dry and a sweet. And since the cider is 12 euros a bottle and only 5 or 6 percent alcohol, this is entirely doable.
As for dessert, one friend had a crêpe filled with red berries and mascarpone, surely better when the fruit is in season. Stick to the basics: salted butter, caramel, chocolate or, if you want to gild the lily, the Little Breizh, which is filled with caramelized apples and topped with crunchy pink pralines (a Lyonnais confection in foreign territory here). I shared it, but I wished I’d ordered my own. Next time.
In a nutshell: In a neighborhood full of overpriced tripist traps, this crêperie is a real gem.
Price check: Galettes, 4.40–10.90 euros; dessert crêpes, 4.50–7.90 euros.
If Little Breizh sounds good, you’ll also like Breizh Café. Read the review.
109, rue Vieille du Temple, in the 3rd.
01 42 72 13 77.
Wed–Sat, noon–11 p.m.
Sun, noon–10 p.m.