5th and 13th Arrondissements


(T) L’Agrume
15, rue des Fossés-St.-Marcel. 01 43 31 86 48.
Tues–Sat, lunch and dinner.
One of the most talked-about openings last winter for good reason:
Franck Marchesi-Grandi’s fresh and modern cooking feels expensive but isn’t, thanks in part to a bare-bones room and a no-man’s-land location. Try to book a counter seat.  

14, rue des Fossés-St.-Bernard. 01 43 54 22 52.
A place we are meaning to try. Noted by Pudlo for serving French regional products grown or raised by strict production methods, such as bull meat from Camargue. We will report back—if you’ve tried it, please post a comment below.

(S) L’Atlas
12, blvd St.-Germain. 01 44 07 23 66.Tues, 7:30 p.m.–11 p.m.; Wed–Sun, noon–2:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m.–11 p.m.
One of the classic addresses for couscous in Paris, L’Atlas is an elegant choice on the left bank

(S) Le Bar à Huitres
33, rue St.-Jacques. 01 44 07 27 37.  (See website for more locations)
A good standby for oysters and all things seafood. You can rely on their freshness.  

(S) Le Bistrot de l’Alycastre
43, rue Claude-Bernard, in the 5th. 08 92 68 06 89.
2, rue Clément, in the 6th. 01 43 25 77 66.
Le Bistrot de l’Alycastre prides itself on its bistronomie, the bistro’s artistic and elegant take on the widely used term gastronomy. Seafood is a must at one of its locations. Dinner for two will run you around 100 euros (including wine), so it’s a good place to save for a special occasion.

(C) Brasserie Balzar
49, rue des Ecoles. 01 43 54 13 67.
The house cassoulet is excellent. This is a very classic place that is sure to please, made famous by Adam Gopnik’s book Paris to the Moon.  

(D, S) Café de la Nouvelle Mairie
19, rue des Fossés-St.-Jacques. 01 44 07 04 41.
Mon–Fri, 8 a.m.–midnight.
This relaxed bar à vin near the Pantheon features natural wines, simple snacks and great ambience, thanks to a beautiful bar and outdoor seating.

(G) Café El Sur
35, blvd St.-Germain. 01 43 25 58 28.
Artsy-cool-looking Argentine café, complete with Argentine steak.

(L) Café Panis
21, quai de Montebello. 01 43 54 19 71.  
Enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Latin Quarter over a coffee or something to snack on at this perfectly romantic café. The terrasse is good for people-watching, as tripists snap photos across the river at Notre Dame and boats pass by on the Seine below. Once you’re ready for the sights, you can take a short walk to the St.-Michel neighborhood.  

(L) Le Coupe-Choue
9–11, rue de Lanneau. 01 46 33 68 69.
Mon–Sat, noon–2:30 p.m.; daily, 7 p.m.–11:30 p.m.
A romantic room, a historic Latin Quarter building, and perfect frisée aux lardons and confit de canard keep visitors coming back here year after year.
Les Délices d’Aphrodite
4, rue de Candolle. 01 43 31 40 39.
Daily, noon–2:15 p.m. and 7 p.m.–11:30 p.m.
The sunny cuisine of Greece is best enjoyed outside, so aim for a table on the lovely terrace.

(*, T) Itinéraires
5, rue de Pontoise. 01 46 33 60 11.
Tues–Sat, lunch and dinner.
When this modern bistro is good, it’s outstanding. Chef Sylvain Sendra and his wife, who runs the floor, have plenty of talent. But when the restaurant is busy (and it always is), it can feel as though they are drowning in their success.

(D, S, V) Les Papilles
30, rue Gay Lussac. 01 43 25 20 79.
Tues–Sat, lunch and dinner.
This beloved caviste serves a unique dinner menu of honest and delicious French food with a seasonal bent. Pick your wine directly from the shelves and pay only a modest corkage. Read a full review here.  

Les Pâtes Vivantes
22, blvd St.-Germain, in the 5th. 01 40 46 84 33.
46, rue du Faubourg Montmartre, in the 9th. 01 45 23 10 21.
Mon–Sat, noon–3 p.m. and 7 p.m.–11 p.m.
Hand-stretched noodles, stir fried or in soup, are the draw at this fun and affordable Chinese restaurant, now with two locations. Read a full review here.

13th Arrondissement

Home to Chinatown.
(V) L’Anacréon
53, blvd St.-Marcel. 01 43 31 71 18.
Excellent, affordable modern bistro cuisine—a good stop if you are in the area.

(G) L’Avant-Gout
26, rue Bobillot. 01 53 80 24 00.
Tues–Sat, lunch and dinner.
This landmark neo-bistro may be a Buttes aux Cailles institution, but guests come from all over Paris for chef Christophe Beaufront’s market cooking. 

(G, V) Pho 14
129, ave de Choisy. 01 45 83 61 15.
Daily, 9 a.m–11 p.m.
A bare-bones but good address for pho in the Chinatown of the 13th.
Chinatown For a trip, start at the gigantic Asian market Tang Frères (48, ave d’Ivry; 01 45 70 80 00)  and let your nose do the navigating as you walk down the avenue. There are Vietnamese, Chinese and Thai delights, including the Vietnamese Pho Mui (97, ave d’Ivry; 01 45 83 70 68) and the Laos-inspired Ruammit (103, ave d’lvry; 01 53 60 00 34). There are loads more on the avenue de Choisy, which runs basically parallel to Ivry. A smaller Chinatown can be found on the rue de Belleville, beginning at No. 35 and running east along the street. Also see the listings in our section on ethnic food.