19th and 20th Arrondissements


19th Arrondissement

(C) Au Boeuf Couronnée
188, ave Jean Jaurès. 01 42 39 44 44. Daily, lunch and dinner.
The massive meat market at La Villette is long gone, but nostalgic carnivores can get their fix of steak frites and tartare at this classic spot.

(G) La Cave Gourmande
10, rue du Général Brunet. 01 40 40 03 30.If you are in the mood to venture out, give this bistro, run by an American chef, a try—original and fresh.

(G, T) Le Chapeau Melon
92, rue Rébeval. 01 42 02 68 60. Wed–Sun, dinner.
Just across the rue de Belleville from Le Baratin, Le Chapeau Melon is a caviste by day and a table d’hôtes by night, serving a unique prix fixe menu, with wines only a few euros above retail. Read a full review here.

(V) Le Pacifique
35, rue de Belleville. 01 42 49 66 80. Daily, 11 a.m.–2 a.m.
Big and bustling, this is the place in Belleville for dim sum.

(T, D, G, L) Rosa Bonheur
2, avenue de la Cascade. 01 42 00 00 45. Wed–Sun, noon–midnight.
There is plenty of bonheur, indeed, at this sprawling indoor/outdoor café at the top of the Parc des Buttes Chaumont. There is a proper restaurant, but you can also go to the counter for cold snacks to bring back to one of the communal tables.