14th and 15th Arrondissements
Wed 30 Jun 2010
(G, S) La Cantine du Troquet
101, rue de l’Ouest. No phone and no reservations. Mon–Fri, opens at 8 p.m.
This is a fun and convivial annex to the Basque bistro Le Troquet, in the 15th, with shared tables, lower prices and no reservations. Arrive early to avoid a wait. Read a full review here.
(G, S) La Cérisaie
70, blvd Edgar Quinet. 01 43 20 98 98. Mon–Fri, lunch and dinner.
The flavors of southwestern France are on the table at this minuscule address, perfect for lovers of foie gras and wild game. An adults-only baba à l’Armagnac makes a fine ending to a meal here.
(C) La Coupole
102, blvd du Montparnasse. 01 43 20 14 20.For a first night in Paris or with a group, we especially like to go to La Coupole and order the fruits de mer platter (if you have small kids, this is a good place, as it is always noisy and a loud kid won’t draw too much attention).
(G, V, S) La Crêperie de Josselin
67, rue du Montparnasse. 01 43 20 93 50. Tues–Fri, 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; Sat, noon–midnight; Sun, noon–11:30 p.m.
Without a doubt the best of the dozens of crêperies around Montparnasse, this kid-friendly room will please demanding adults, too. Delicious and cheap.
(C) Le Dôme (pictured above)
108, blvd du Montparnasse. 01 43 35 25 81.Le Dôme, which has been open since 1920, instantly puts you in the Paris vibe. Picasso and other artists used to hang out here in the ’30s. The sole meunière is the best you’ll ever have.
(G, V) Parnasse
138, blvd du Montparnasse. 01 43 20 47 87. Down the boulevard, beyond the bright lights and the hideous Montparnasse tower, you’ll find this cheap local joint with some basic yet very well-made cuisine. The decor leaves something to be desired, but Parnasse offers a terrific lunch deal at 12.50 euros.
(G, S) La Régalade
49, ave Jean Moulin, in the 14th. 01 45 45 68 58. Tues–Fri, lunch; Mon–Fri, dinner.
123, rue St. Honoré, in the 1st. 01 42 21 92 40. Mon–Fri, lunch and dinner.
Was this the first neo-bistro? Maybe or maybe not, but La Régalade continues to deliver after all these years, even after opening another location in central Paris. It’s refined but comforting, well-priced and generous, starting with the house-made terrine that’s yours to nibble while you look at the menu.
(G) Le Severo and Le Bis du Severo
Le Severo: 8, rue des Plantes. 01 45 40 40 91. Mon–Fri, lunch and dinner.
Le Bis du Severo: 16, rue des Plantes. 01 40 44 73 09. Tues–Sat, lunch; Mon–Fri, dinner.
Looking for an excellent steak? Book a table at either of these addresses and order the côte de boeuf, and your search will be over. Carnivores only.
(G, S, V) La Cabane à Huitres
4, rue Antoine Bourdelle. 01 45 49 47 27. Wed–Sat, lunch and dinner.
Can’t make it down to the Arcachon bay? Françis Dubourg brings it to you with his beautiful bivalves, raised the old-fashioned way and served with pride at this charming shack in the shadow of Montparnasse. A must for oyster lovers.
(V) La Cave de l’Os a Moelle and L’Os a Moelle
181, rue de Lourmel. 01 45 57 28 28. 3, rue Vasco-de-Gama. 01 45 57 27 27. Two neo-bistro-style offerings from Thierry Faucher, formerly of the Hôtel de Crillon. At La Cave, which is a wine bar, you are seated at long tables with strangers and presented with pâté, salads, breads, etc., to share. The organic wines on offer are a perfect accompaniment. Then a soup course comes, followed by a cheese course and finally a dessert buffet. If you prefer a six-course meal at a reasonable price (serving only one choice per day) then try L’Os around the corner. Both are very high concept yet fun, and both are true foodie haunts.
(G, S) Le Grand Pan
20, rue Rosenwald. 01 42 50 02 50. Mon–Fri, lunch and dinner.
Another address from Christian Etchebest, featuring the best French products, from Bertin lettuces to Ospital pork. Every neighborhood should be so lucky to have a bistro like this. Read a full review here.
(*, T) Jadis
208, rue de la Croix Nivert. 01 45 57 73 20. Mon–Fri, lunch; Mon–Sat, dinner.
Critical favorite Guillaume Delage meticulously researches cookbooks of ages past, then updates the recipes for the 21st century. It all sounds very academic, but the results speak as much to the belly as the brain.
(G, L) Le Piquet
48, ave de la Motte Picquet. 01 47 34 66 56. Le Piquet is the spot for an excellent breakfast close to the Champ de Mars, at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. The brasserie has a 1930s Parisian atmosphere and is praised for using fresh, seasonal ingredients. On the menu you’ll find quintessential French dishes such as escargot, foie gras, soupe à l’oignon and entrecôte (rib steak). The prices are reasonable, and the brasserie is open daily from 6:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. There is a lunch special for 14.50 euros, Monday through Friday, and a prix fixe dinner for around 35 euros per person. Le Piquet also carries several organic wines.
(G, S) Le Troquet
21, rue François Bonvin. 01 45 66 89 00.Tues–Sat, lunch and dinner.
Christian Etchebest’s neo-bistro has a hearty Basque soul and is always crowded with hungry locals.